New on Kuhl Outsiders: Stepping to the Horizon

https://modaypadel.com/zvd21rea5m Image of Iraq Al-Amir ruins in Jordan in story for Kuhl The Outsiders.

This is one of my favorite stories from this past May’s trip to Jordan. It’s been kept under wraps waiting for this feature to drop with Kuhl’s The Outsider — and now I can finally share it with you.

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Hiking the northern reaches of Jordan, I knew we had plans to stop in the small village of Iraq Al-Amir and visit the women’s cooperative located there. I’d already fallen in love with the region — hard and fast — but this visit turned my view of the country upside down. https://gungrove.com/mz840acgxzk Read the full feature to see why, but here’s a sample:

Woman placing handmade, hand-crafted paper on racks to dry at Iraq Al-Amir Women Cooperative in Jordan.

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… For the women of the Women Cooperative Society, the sentiment rings true more now than ever. Jordan is struggling. Struggling to accommodate a rising unemployment rate — currently between 35 and 40 percent, with every one in two jobs going to Syrian refugees. Struggling to house and provide for waves of those very same incoming refugees. At the moment, more than 150,000 refugees live in two large camps near the capital city of Amman, while tens of thousands more live in tents, apartments and even caves throughout the countryside. More arrive every day. While driving through Amman, it’s not uncommon to see a makeshift tent pitched next to a road, perhaps tucked under the shade of an old oak tree, often hosting two or more families as they seek to create a life — some form of life after war.

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The struggles are visceral; hard, in-your-face daily battles that make our incorrect coffee orders and slow internet struggles seem rather petty. Here, life is boiled down to the bare basics: shelter, food and family. A means to provide. In a country bracketed by war — and, by all accounts, quite possibly more wars to come — Jordan remains a beacon of hope for those in the region. “Jordan has borders with many countries that are unstable. We are not. Jordan is the oasis of stability in the Middle East,” shares Zahir, my guide who leads me through the countryside. By day two, he’s quick to warm to political discussions, and as the miles pass beneath the truck tires, he explains the struggles this country is facing. Underneath the talk of policy and politics, an undercurrent of hope is clear. Someday, he hopes, someday tourism will return in full force to Jordan, bringing with it foreign money and the hopes for a revitalized country.

https://manabernardes.com/2024/dggvwrlvu9 A Jordanian woman smiles at the camera at the Iraq Al-Amir Women Cooperative in Jordan.

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That same night, I stand on the porch of my little forest cabin just past 4AM, listening to the nearby village’s call to prayer echo through the hills and watching the sky northward. There, a mere 22 miles away, lies Syria. Hiking across a ridge earlier in the day, I’d stopped and simply watched the northward sky, recalling recent news headlines of bombings and missiles and war. Remembering a journalist friend who had been killed several years ago somewhere, somewhere under that northern sky. Less than 12 miles to the west is the West Bank, bringing its own set of strife and recent headlines. Under the shadow of the night sky, I wonder if missiles were fired — as they were the night before — if I could see it from here. It’s hard not to think over the recent conflicts and the centuries of wars and battles these lands have seen.

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Huge thanks to the ladies of the Cooperative for letting us stop in for lunch and conversation, and for their lovely smiles in front of the camera. Thanks to the awesome editorial team at Kuhl for taking a risk with this story, and to the incredible travel mates I made along the way — I look forward to meeting many of you in bars and on beaches (or deserts) around the globe.

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https://equinlab.com/2024/01/18/0shxeov And thanks to the Adventure Travel Trade Association, Visit Jordan, Visit Jordan North America and Abercrombie and Kent for making the logistics possible.

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https://www.chat-quiberon.com/2024/01/18/l92jyk74 A woman makes paper by hand at the raq Al-Amir Women Cooperative in Jordan.